As I think back now I really did win the Antarctic lottery during my first winter-over in 1990, while most FNG's as we were called Fucking New Guys seldom made it to any of the tourist hot spots like Cape Evans, Corzier, Royds, the Dry Valley's or even the Ice Caves. The McMurdo residents do have the luxury of having Hut Point the home to Discovery Hut, the shack built by Scott in 1902 as a staging post, the hut is kept under lock and key and is only opened for tours a few times a year, the Kiwis controlled access.
It was early December and the Winter-Over SAR team was off to the Dry Valleys for 3 days of training, greatest boondoggle of the year or I thought. The McMurdo Dry Valleys are a row of valleys just west of McMurdo Station, here is a little climate information from Wikipedia:


The Dry Valleys are so named because of their extremely low humidity and their lack of snow or ice cover. Together, at 4800 square kilometers, they constitute around 0.03 % of the continent, and form the largest relatively ice-free region in Antarctica. The valley floors are covered with a loose gravelly material, in which ice-wedge polygons may be observed.
The unique conditions in the Dry Valleys are caused by katabatic winds (from the Greek word for 'going down'). These occur when cold, dense air is pulled downhill simply by the force of gravity. The winds can reach speeds of 320 km/h (200 mph) evaporating all moisture - water, ice and snow - in the process. Mummified seal carcasses can be found through out the McMurdo Dry Valleys. The above photo of the Wright Valley was shot on our
way down to Lake Vanda.

During the summer season you often heard the sounds of the
Huey-N helicopter flown by VXE6, it reminds me of a B-rated Vietnam movie, however the only transportation to the Dry Valleys. Once we packed our gear and received our safety briefing we lifted off and headed north west across the annual ice of the Ross Sea towards Marble Point which is located on a narrow strip of land between Wilson Piedmont Glacier and the sea about 50 miles from McMurdo Station which serves as a refueling station during summer months, after a quick refuel we re boarded our bright orange taxi and off to 3 days of exploring one the strangest places on the planet, after spending a few days hiking about it is not wonder NASA has conducted many robotic experiments preparing for upcoming Mars missions through out the dry valleys. After landing our first priority was to set up camp, I quickly found a small patch of snow and set up my tent and hopefully out of the wind, while the others attempted to erect theirs on the martain like surroundings.

We had a mixed crew on this trip a Navy Corpsman Chief Dempsey, Phil Clerk and Paul the Palm both from Scott Base and one other besides myself and I will need to reach out to my fellow OAE's Old Antarctic Explorers to help resotre my memory.

After setting up camp every one began wondering around just soaking up the amazing views, I would of given anything to have a 10 megapixel digital camera, most of the photo's were taken with a cheap Fuji 35MM camera. The rocky terrain was just amazing, the wind has blown for millions of years shaping rocks like none other many are pyramid shaped others look like a bowl turned upside down, I was lucky to find two very small examples of both see the photo below


As you can see from the photo above that our kitchen had all of the comforts of home, while it was nice being on top a plateau for the amazing views being exposed in Antarctica is never a good idea.
The team wonder about for first 1.5 days and practiced reading maps based on scenarios presented to each of us, the terrain is so massive that one wrong turn could cause days of delays or even worse if it were a real SAR mission.
I was in charge of communications for the team, we each had an Motorola hand held and one backpack HF radio with a small ground plane type of antenna that could be tuned with jumpers for 4 different frequencies that were monitored 24/7 at Mac Ops, we were required to check in each morning between 6-10AM.
I was informed the morning of our second day that Mac Town was under condition 1 and no Helo's would be flying, the weather guessers said it could be several days before the storm was over. The new situation required that the team develop a new plan for the next serveral days, while we had plenty of food we were ready for something a little more exciting, so after a 30 minute conversation we agreed that tomorrow we would attempt to summit Mount Aeolus and the following day head towards Lake Vanda a small New Zealand research facility.
It took over 5 hours to reach base of Aeolus and we quickly roped up and donned our crampon's and made up way up a snow and blue ice path. For those of us with real mountaineering boots or the blue mukluks were doing just fine, however Chief Dempsey had the Navy issue bunny boots while they were by the warmest available they were not crampon friendly and the Chief had a hell of a time keeping them attached to his boots. He finally gave up and 3 of us quickly headed for one of the 3 summits,


Phil waiting to summit, there was only room for one at a time, I was directly across from them juggling against a wall to kill time.

Here is a great shot of Phil Clerk on one of the summits, the top was a bizarre sandstone and very delicate, we were very careful to leave no trace that we were ever there. We all headed back to Camp, the great think about climbing in the Antarctica is 24 hours of daylight in the summer months makes for very long or even multiday events.
After a good nights sleep, we decided to take only the bare minimum equipment with us on our trip to Lake Vanda, after breaking down camp and covering the gear we planned to leave behind with dozens of heavy rocks to ensure nothing blew away we were off.

Knowing that Vanda Station is full of rules and traditions we came prepared just incase we were lucky enough for a visit, upon arrival we quickly produced 2 bottles of Drambue which allowed us to enter the station. They produce the ceremonial knife which they used to open the two bottles and also quickly produced a set up rules in which we were to follow during the ordeal.

This consisted of answering trivia about the history of Drambuie all of which could be found on the bottle, others required more difficult tasks as shown in the next photo you were required to jump up on the table drink your entire glass and spin around 3 times then answer a question from one of the Vanda occupants.

As with any International party there has to be one in the crowd that just cannot handle his or her liquor, in this case it was "Paul the Palm" The next thing you know Paul is dancing with a mummified seal and everyone was in tears, the party continued for many hours more booze was found in our packs a little cognac and a little Artillery Port which only led us down another path, Hey can we join the world famous Vanda Swim club ?

Lake Vanda Station was well known for The Royal Lake Vanda Swim Club. Visitors to Lake Vanda Station could dip into the high salinity waters when the icecap edge melted out during summer to form a 'moat', and receive a Royal Lake Vanda Swim Club shoulder patch. Vanda staff would assist the melt by hacking out a 'pool'. Many dignitaries and politicians were inducted into the club, The dip had to be naked (Rule 1), complete immersion (Rule 4), witnessed by a 'Vandal' (Vanda Station staffer) and with no restrictions on photography (Rule 6) to qualify. Rule 10 allowed a natural figleaf, but it had to be natural and also naturally green without artificial aid, once again thanks to wikipedia for providing the rules as there have been long forgotten and even worse we were 45 days too early to joing the club, the water had not melted nor had any hole been cut yet this year. Never let a few minor details stop the determination of a drunken SAR team, while we were able to dig quite a big hole in the ice no water so we were unable to join the club.

The next morning we were awaken by Mac Ops calling Vanda on the HF radio, have the SAR team ready to leave in 2 hours, all with miserable hang overs we quickly cleaned up station and made our way to the airport none of us looking forward to the ride back to Mac Town.
Since then the Vanda Station was removed, I never manged to join the Vanda Swim Club, maybe on my next trip to Antarctica.
